Breath: A Novel by Tim Winton Summary and Reviews
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Book Reviews of Breath: A Novel
Book Review: that was surfing
Summary: 5 Stars
I haven't finished reading it, but I surfed Steamer's Lane and Hazards in California and Winton has it down. I have never read Anything that describes the sensations as well as he does. The kinds of intense feelings he describes are the things I experienced and are reasons, in part, that I no longer try to surf.
I have read mant surfing novels, but this is by far the best.