Cheese Primer by Steven Jenkins Summary and Reviews
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Book Reviews of Cheese Primer
Book Review: Comprehensive, easy reference for cheese lovers...
Summary: 5 Stars
This is THE book for finding your way through any gourmet-type cheese shop. It is a wonderful reference for both novice and expert. I am having a great time trying some of Steve's suggested combinations, and can't wait to try more! Lots of great, practical information. YummoBook Review: Comte = very few small holes Emmentaler = lots of big holes
Summary: 4 Stars
I worked as a cheesemonger for five years, have shopped at Mr. Jenkins counter at Fairway in NYC, and have attended American Cheese Society conferences where he has spoken. When I've heard him speak, he has always admitted that there is incorrect and out of date information in this book - it was published in 1996, and since then, some cheeses that were unavailable in the U.S., or only available in pasteurized versions have become available or additionally available in raw milk versions. For example, on p. 159, he states that Bleu d'Auvergne is only made with pasteurized milk. There are versions now that you can buy in the U.S. made with raw milk and have been for at least five years.It's not a huge problem for a casual reader that there are errors in the book - though some of them are factual, many of them are changes caused by the growth in interest in good cheese in the U.S. Availability is changeable, and we get to eat more delicious treasures because of greater interest in cheeses here in America, which includes the promotion of cheeses by Mr. Jenkins. I've heard that he's working on a second edition, but that was a couple years ago, and a revision of a work like this is certainly a long process.
That being said, the picture on p. 116 *is* captioned incorrectly. The text above the picture is about Emmentaler. A wheel of Emmentaler (originally from Bern, a bulging Swiss cheese with holes produced by the action of innocuous bacteria added to the curd in production and a smooth, brushed rind) is identified as a wheel of Comte (a cheese from the Franche-Comte region of France with a few small holes, and a flat, bumpy, natural brown rind, pictured on p. 114). This is obviously an editing mistake. Believe me, your average book editor is not going to be identify cheeses by sight at ten paces as a cheesemonger can. If you turn the book upside down and look closely, you will be able to read the words "Grand Cru" on the top of the cheese. It's Grand Cru Emmentaler.
Mr. Jenkins tells us himself, "I'm opinionated about flavor and pull no punches." He is opinionated, and his likes and dislikes come through strongly. Don't decide to dismiss a cheese entirely because he doesn't like it, or accept it just because he loves it. You just can't do that with food. This is a chatty, enjoyable, conversational read, but if you want to learn about cheese, don't just read this book. Read others too, and *most importantly*, go out and meet your local cheesemonger and taste all the different types of cheese you can!
Book Review: Couldn't put it down!
Summary: 5 Stars
I picked up a copy of Steve Jenkins' Cheese Primer because I have a great interest in the fine cheeses of the world. I thought it would be a good reference to consult whenever I wanted to try something new, or remember something old. But I began reading the introduction and found myself entranced by his writing style. His strong voice, unyielding opinions, and prosaic descriptions make for a thoroughly entertaining read -- AND it's the best cheese reference book around. If you like cheese, or just good writing, or both, buy this book!Book Review: Encyclopedia of Cheese But . . .
Summary: 4 Stars
This book has more information on cheeses world-wide than I've ever seen gathered in one place. It discusses cheeses from each of the major (and not so major) countries in the world. And in my favorite section, Mr. Jenkins does a state-by-state inventory of artisan cheeses. There are also sections on how to enjoy cheese and what to enjoy it with. On the down side, there are no color pictures and many of the black and white photos are of lesser quality. But all in all, an excellent book for those relatively new to cheese.Book Review: Essential!
Summary: 5 Stars
The book is required reading for anyone claiming to have a serious interest in cheese or, for that matter, food (excepting certain dietary restrictions, of course). After explaining the history, manufacturing and aging processes, and identifying and describing the various cheese categories that result from those processes, Jenkins then takes the reader on a world tour of important cheese-producing countries, and on a region-by-region basis introduces him to the important indigenous cheeses, their variations, their histories, and which other cheeses--if any--are similar. Tips on how to buy (including what to look for and what to avoid), serving suggestions, and the wines and side dishes that best partner each selection are also included; the storage tips are invaluable (and most cost-effective). Also included are some easy, KICKIN' recipes, including one for the best corn chowder I've ever tasted (cut the dill by half, though). The reader is not only made aware of the existence and availability of cheeses of which he's never heard, but which--based on their description--he might be most inclined to enjoy. In fact, if this book possesses any flaw at all (excepting the crummy paper already noted by previous reviewers), it's that it could really use an update--many cheeses have come and gone since its first appearance, and some listed are now--horrors--made from pasteurized milk.
It's indeed unfortunate that our government, in its infinite wisdom, has taken upon itself the responsibility for protecting us from the dangers of <60-days-old cheeses made from raw milk. I suppose their hands are tied though, in view of the fact that consumers in other, less-enlightened parts of the world are dropping like flies due to their consumption of these deadly cheeses. Indeed, one is forced to wonder how, in light of such devastation, anyone is even left to manufacture these lethal foodstuffs. Fortunately, we'll be avenged for Pearl Harbor: European cheese producers can't keep up with Japanese demand for raw milk cheeses. (Is my bitterness at this stupidity apparent yet? Forgive me; a Libertarian-type rant, especially where my tastebuds are concerned, is often a good catharsis.)
I'm lucky enough to be able to pick Steve's brain personally while doing my shopping at Fairway in NYC, and have been doing so at every opportunity for the last several years. This is not only rewarding for the most obvious reason--that I learn from a master about the four foods that most interest me: cheese, olive oil, honey, and balsamic--but it also provides the ego-enhancing benefit of having him take my own food tips and experiences seriously when I have any to pass along. Fairway is a unique shopping experience that can be likened to visiting friends who happen to purvey an eclectic range of foods at great prices; indeed, it really is "like no other market." It's the pleasantest, most rewarding food shopping in Manhattan and I'm proud to include Steve as a friend.
FLASH! Cheese Primer is now a shiny hardcover! All else is the same, but it's now more or less kitchen-proof and a lot sturdier. Nice touch!