Cheese Primer by Steven Jenkins Summary and Reviews
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Book Reviews of Cheese Primer
Book Review: Interesting Even For the Non-Obsessed Reader
Summary: 4 Stars
Although I love cheese, I apparently do not share the fanatical devotion of some of the author's readers. But I very much enjoyed this book, which dramatically enhanced my knowledge of cheese and provided an insight to an entirely new world. The classifications are very well organized, and the evaluations given are clear and illuminating. I've even gone to my cheese shop to examine the offerings with the book in hand, so reading it has had a great effect on my consumption as well as my knowledge.Book Review: Into the World of Fromage
Summary: 5 Stars
Growing up on waxy American cheese slices, made me repelled by even the mention of cheese. Then a friend who was really into it, took me to a cheese shop where we sampled slice after slice of exotic cheeses from all over the planet.From then on I'm hooked. Cook constantly with the stuff! Cheese please! Jenkings provides us with a good primer on the subject, country by country with his ratings.
Started off in Dean and Deluca, where the best of everything is offered in their catalog and online now.
For American cheese, try Laura Werlin's excellent book: The New American Cheese, which features recipes with American cheese artisans. If you can, find a cheese shop in your area. Explore and enjoy.
Book Review: More of an epicure's guide than an introduction.
Summary: 4 Stars
`Cheese Primer' by a leading American `fromagerie' (sic), Steven Jenkins is a typical Workman Publishing slick treatment of a subject in a relatively inexpensive trade paperback format which is great to look at and promises lots of useful information on it's subject. This, like most of Workman's similar titles largely delivers on its promise, but it does not quite live up to its moniker as a `Primer'. The primary reason for this is that it does live up to the promise that the author is `America's most opinionated authority'.
There is no question that Monsieur Jenkins knows his stuff. He is especially well versed on artisinal cheeses from around the world, especially in France, Italy, Spain, and the United States. In fact, one of the most salutary discoveries in this book is that the good old U. S. of A is developing a really decent artisinal cheese industry, California cows notwithstanding.
The main problem with the book is that it did not answer in a good `Cheese for Dummies' way, some of the primary questions I had about cheese. For example, there was no spiffy table giving the primary characteristics of the world's major cheeses. This is expecially important as France alone, with its more than 400 named types of cheeses have dozens which fall into the same general type. This is expecially important when we find that our A-list cheeses may not be available, but a differently named cheese with very similar properties is available and at a substantially reduced price. The author very accurately states that it is simply not possible to pidgeon-hole all cheeses into particular types, as there is so much overlap. This is why we need a tabular presentation of cheese properties. What, for example makes Camembert, Brie, and Roquefort similar and what makes them different from one another.
One of my greatest affirmations from this book is the fact that while France enjoys the reputation of being THE great cheese making country of the world, Italy actually imports a lot more by weight than does France. This is really not too surprising as most of France's great cheeses are soft and do not travel that well, while the stars of Italian cheesemaking are the hard grana-like cheeses, lead by the regal Parmisano-Reggiano and the princely Pecarino Romano. Italian cheeses are one of the four legs on which it's great cuisine sits, along with its wine, charcuterie, and pasta, with a special mention due to its bread making, which is exported more in concept than in substance.
This book is great as a second book on cheese, serving as a reference on the salient features of our most important cheeses. It's recommendations on serving cheese are just a bit too fussy for everyday use. I noticed this especially when I saw Jenkins recommend for a cheese platter a cheese which was very difficult to obtain anywhere in the country except in the very largest cities with major cheese shops.
I was also surprised that the book gives no list of sources, even if they are only good for the locals. Where is the plug for the Texas outfit which makes mozzarella or my favorite DePaolo cheese shop in New York's Little Italy. Where is the plug for Murray's Cheese, also in New York City. We only get mentions of places where Mr. Jenkins has worked.
If you love cheese and you can get a copy of this book for under $10, this is a good buy. Otherwise, keep looking.
Book Review: Put your money where your mouth is, Steve
Summary: 3 Stars
Steve Jenkins is one of the most opinionated cheesemongers in the country, and therein lies his problem. Throughout the book his prounouncements and his boasting make him look foolish if not petty. The book is rife with errors and --thank goodness-- is apparently being revised as I write this. Among my favorite errors in the book is a photograph on page 116, "With a sweeping gesture, this cheese shop clerk cuts into a wedge of Comte with a wire cutter." Clearly the cheese is Grand Cru Emmenthal, not Comte. Perhaps he suffers from bad editing, but there is no need to make us all suffer with him. Particularly insufferable is his "American Treasures" section of his overview of American cheeses. Laura Chenel's chevre may have been a 'treasure' 10 years ago, but the stuff available in most markets today, both domestic and norwegian produced, is flaccid, tasteless, and unimaginative. Just perfect for the US market, right Steve? His "Great Cheeses" section has produced a generation of sheep haunting their favorite cheese counters with requests for the grossly commercial Explorateur, the equally commercial rouzaire Gratte Paille, the gruesome Leyden (just try selling that in your cheese counter...bet you will be stuck with it for years!), and boring Boursalt. His top cheeses are all pretty mundane, and unfortunately many novice cheesemongers fill their cases with his recommendations. I tell all my cheese neophyte friends to buy Cheese Primer for a basic education, but they must form opinions about quality themselves. And they shouldn't believe everything Jenkins puts forward-- the fact checker must have been out the day he submitted his manuscript. One other thing to keep in mind is that some cheeses which Jenkins describes as rare or not imported into the US no longer applies. Don't take his word for it. Just go to your favorite cheese shop and ask for one of those cheeses (start with REAL epoisse or Vacherin Mont D'or). But don't ask at one of those places where Jenkins' book is the only one on display. They wouldn't know.Book Review: Say Cheeeeseeeeee
Summary: 5 Stars
While browsing the local library used book sale, I came across this book and picked it up as I was wanting to branch out in my cheese choices. Cheddar, Brie and Mozzarella were about my limits! My head was spinning as I leafed through over 500 pages of cheeses organized by country. In the weeks since I purchased the book, I've been searching out certain cheeses and studying the subject through Internet searches. While some of the book is outdated (1996 copyright), the advice and subject matter is timeless.
As you delve through the book, one thing becomes apparent, it is probably impossible to ever learn even a fraction of what there is to know about cheese. The book discusses how to purchase cheese, how to store it, and how to make sure you experience cheese the most wonderful way possible. At the end of each cheese description you'll find a short paragraph on choosing and serving each particular cheese.
This book certainly has piqued my interest in cheese!