Surf Is Where You Find It
by Gerry Lopez
Book Summary Information
Author: Gerry LopezEdition: Hardcover
Audio: English (Original Language); English (Unknown); English (Published)
Published: 2008-04-01
ISBN: 0979065925
Number of pages: 246
Publisher: Patagonia Inc.
Product features:
- ISBN13: 9780979065927
- Condition: NEW
- Notes: Brand New from Publisher. No Remainder Mark.
Book Reviews of Surf Is Where You Find It
Book Review: Gerry Lopez rule of surfing #6 read this book
Summary: 4 Stars
Would this book be as readable if it wasn't written by one of the most stylish surfers ever to slide across the face of a wave? Possibly not but it was and as a result ever word is given extra resonance by the man who wrote it.
Occasionally it can be a bit repetetive, how many time do you have to survive a cleanup set in Hawaii before you no longer say to yourself, "this is it Gerry, I'm going to die" and say well I've survived them before, I just might make it through this one aswell. The cod Eastern philosophy can be a bit cheesy too. But mainly I loved this book for the matey humour and the relaxed view of life that it portrays.
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