Terrine by Stephane Reynaud Summary and Reviews
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Book Reviews of Terrine
Book Review: Phenomenal follow-up
Summary: 5 Stars
I love the rustic feel of M Reynaud's previous book (pink gingham anyone?). The pictures make me feel like a friend invited to a boucherie and his recipes are extraordinary. Along with the River Cottage Meat Book and the Fergus Henderson books, this counts as one of my favorite charcuterie books.
Terrine explores all types of terrines.. cheese, vegetable, meat, sweet.. The pictures are clean and beautiful and the recipes are brilliant. I've had the book for a little under a week and I've had the chance to cook several of the recipes with my restaurant staff. I am impressed once again with the simple and rustic look of some of the recipes and have been inspired by what M Reynaud is presenting.
Book Review: Watch out!
Summary: 1 Stars
RE page 132, the recipe for pain d'epice is a catastrophe. I can't believe this recipe was tested effectively. Evidently a batter chilled for 48 hours in a refrigerator and immediately upon withdrawal put into a baker's-paper-lined loaf pan and into an oven heated to 350-degrees F for an hour develops a scant inch-thick hard baked crust and remains liquid in the middle. This pain d'epice was the first thing I made from TERRINE, because of wondering RE a gingerbread with no ginger, no eggs, no butter, and no buttermilk to complement the bicarbonate of soda. It's an expensive recipe to fail--honey, lemon and orange zest, candied fruit, currants, three varieties of flour, two alcoholic elixirs, etc. After cutting into it (after it cooled, per instructions), the liquid--entirely uncooked-- centre flowed through the cooling rack all over the kitchen counter and was scraped up with a spatula and thrown out. After cleaning up, I cut the goo off some of the pretty-tough crust to 3/4" thick of cooked, and tasted it, and found it too sweet to enjoy with Roquefort and *butter*--and the picture doesn't show a crust--just the lightly-risen centre sandwiched between the Roquefort and butter mix. I can't believe that anyone has successfully followed this recipe out the window from start to finish in a test-kitchen and that it turned out okay for them. I found it unredeemably unworkable. I can see how it might be improved by the loaf pan being set in boiling water and cooked at 350 for two hours, etc. However, this recipe puts the rest of the book into doubt: I'm gun-shy about it, and, for example, yesterday evening compared veal pate in pastry (p. 102) with Julia Child's recipe for the same, because of not wishing to risk my veal stock, clarified with egg-white and subsequently frozen, in TERRINE's maybe dud recipe. And, of course, "falling apart" is a typical hazard of terrines, against which Julia gives sage advice absent here.
More Terrine reviews:
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