The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest
by Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston DeWalt
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Book Summary Information
Author: Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston DeWaltEdition: Paperback
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 1999-07-16
ISBN: 0312206372
Number of pages: 416
Publisher: St. Martin's Griffin
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Book Reviews of The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest
Book Review: "The Climb" vs "Into Thin Air"
Summary: 4 Stars
For anyone who has read Jon Krakauer's gripping first-hand account in "Into Thin Air" and needs closure (especially and not in spite of his accusatory remarks surrounding Anatoli's role in the rescue event) , Anatoli's book does not disappoint.
It is true that readers may not experience the same sense of urgency and readability in Anatoli's book. The Russian mountaineer's book, even with all the flaws of it being penned by a third party who never climbed the slopes of Everest, not least in a style that lacked the same page-turning qualities as Jon's book, was more than made up for by its refreshing rawness. While a very good story-teller, Jon's over-generous use of quotable quotes/excerpts was, to say the least, irksome. Reading about the event from Anatoli's perspective gave you the vantage point of looking at things as if you were amongst the party of the Mountain Madness team, unlike Jon's version where readers remained outsiders or mere voyeurs. Reading about Anatoli's recollection made Jon's words appeared fraught with sensationism and naiveté. While Jon oftentimes justified his actions or views in what later proved to be clouded or colored - either by his lack of high altitude experience or his complex against paid clients of higher social/financial standing or a mixture of both - Anatoli cut to the chase and enriched readers in many facets: why high-altitude mountaineers are inevitably driven to leading commercial expedition to finance their life-long passion of summiting higher and more dangerous peaks; what constituted successful acclimatization and the use/safety of supplemental oxygen; his heroic act of selflessness when he saved three lives in his team under what was no less than near-hell circumstances.
Anatoli's book also provided a formidable rebuttal to Jon's callous assertions made in "Into Thin Air" - prose that might have been biased and unfeeling at best and slanderous at worst. To any dedicated high-altitude climber, reputation is of paramount importance - it is little wonder why Anatoli would insist on putting in print his version of events in debunking some of the myths/errors presented in Jon's account. At the end of Anatoli's book, our views of what really happened on May 10th, 1996 would be less one-sided and our unfavorable views on Anatoli as portrayed by Jon would take an abrupt about-turn. This is an important process for readers seeking a more well-rounded view of what really happened on that fateful day. After all, one undisputed fact remains: no paid clients on the 1996 Mountain Madness' team perished, and mostly, if not entirely, to Anatoli's credit.
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