The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston DeWalt Summary and Reviews
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Book Reviews of The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest
Book Review: Great Read
Summary: 5 Stars
I had no previous knowledge about the events detailed in this book, but I greatly enjoyed the read. It was a page-turner. It seemed like a well balanced account of events.Book Review: Hmmmm
Summary: 2 Stars
I'd heard a lot about this book so I was eager to read it. But now that I have, I'm not sure I see what all the fuss is about. The events the author talks about are sort of interesting but the writing is not very good. Actually the writing is really dull except for in a few chapters. Also, this Russian climber Boukreev who hired G. Dewalt to write the book, he seems really defensive, like he's got something to hide. He sure spends a lot of energy dissing John Krakauer. I guess now I'll have to read "Into Thin Air" to see what the deal is with that, although this book doesn't exactly make you want to read a lot more about Everest.Book Review: Honest, as it can be I suppose
Summary: 4 Stars
Having read "Into Thin Air" after reading "The Climb", Boukreev is portrayed not as a hero but more like a human being with some very good intentions. However, I chose not to rely on either of these books exclusively to find out as Boukreev would probably would say, "kto vinovat?"- who is to blame. There are other accounts I'm sure, for example Lena Gammelgard (sp?) recently gave her account so I am sure there is further insight, so at this time unlike other readers I reserve my judgement.The oxygen situation seemed to have tried Boukreev's patience more than anything. His account of acquiring these Poisk bottles, probably greatly influenced his decision to go without oxygen for probably the clients' and the entire group. Although, Boukreev never admits it, Fischer's concern on costs more than likely hinted to him to start finding ways to give the clients as much oxygen as they need on the summit and descent. He also partly chastises the clients for not being entire prepared for high-altitude mountaineering, which I think most any client would pale in comparison to a guides' experience no matter the mountain. Assertions that Boukreev was ill-clothed for summit day were disproved with a photograph. I don't find this trivial, summit day requires clothing for all measures and even more so for a guide. Boukreev has every right to make sure DeWalt (even if a bit heavy-handedly) made it known that he was prepared physically and mentally, so he would be prepared to help the clients. As a former client of a mountaineering school, I'm sure the clients on Everest that day signed some type of waiver on the responsibilities of other clients and guides. Despite these waivers, guides still hold themselves to certain obligations of their clients, safety being paramount. Yet, they walk that fine line of safety and baby sitting. Boukreev obviously didn't have the communication skills to ascertain that. Of course, I have my own skepticism. As a Russian speaker and budding mountaineer and as someone who acts as a translator/liaison between English speakers and Russians, I found Boukreev's transcripts compelling (but for my English reading, extremely tiresome!), but the value I found was how poor his English seemed (I say this hesitantly since transcripts can be edited). "Into Thin Air" portrayed Boukreev as a guide doing his own thing, but the transcript reveals to me that Boukreev perhaps felt constrained by his English. On paper guides are respected for what they have done and can do, but the most important way to the convey this to clients is by building a strong base of communication (as repoire I guess). If a guide cannot communicate at a "small talk" level how can he/she do it when struggling up and down a mountain? No wonder I get that wooden impression of Boukreev when reading "Into Thin Air." This is further reinforced by Boukreev description of his clients- he might as well just read verbatim their climbing resumes. Such small talk cannot by underestimated in building client/guide bonds. My other criticism is the "because Scott told me" feeling I have. The situation with oxygen and money all came from Scott, the other guide Neal seemed wooden. Why? Boukreev's communication. Can we also say how easy it is to blame the dead guy. I have my doubts about his decisions on summit day as coming from Scott. On the other hand Fischer seemed quite headstrong and probably didn't appreciate what Boukreev had to offer and seemed to misuse Boukreev's value to the team. I can how this might strengthen Boukreev's isolation.
Overall, Boukreev wanted to portray himself as honestly as he could. Of course such participant accounts are always tinged either intentionally or unintentionally by self-justification. He felt more business pressure than he let on and coupled with poor repoire with clients likely compounded the tragedy that occurred. He still had the guts to go back out to retrieve clients in need of help, which during a whiteout and storm is an incredibly frightening experience from my experience.
"The Climb" is worth its read especially from someone as experienced as Boukreev and the respect and admiration that he commands in the Russian mountaineering community is something that the mountaineering world as a whole cannot fully appreciate.
Mir prakhu ego
Book Review: Honesty Should Matter
Summary: 5 Stars
If you take the time to study all that has been written about Everest 96, it is difficult to accept Krakauer's concept of Anatoli as villian. I'd guess that the language barrier is a greater villian. Another villian is the effect of compounded bad decisions. I would not be surprised if the draft version of Into Thin Air had Rob Hall and Scott Fischer as primary villians, only to be replaced by Toli after the editor told Jon that it's poor form to pick on the dead. I used to read every Krakauer book or magazine article but now that I know he's willing to tell "little lies", I won't bother. I'd rather sift through Dewalt's drivel in order to get the facts written by Toli that have to guess how much I can trust Jon.Rest in peace, Anatoli. I know you did your best in a bad situation.
Book Review: Interesting facts but dissapointing overall
Summary: 2 Stars
After reading Krakauer's version of the 1996 disaster on Mt. Everest I decided to read any other available account including Boukreev's. Having read some of the other reviews of both books I want to state that I am not interested in which climber was right or wrong. I am only interested in the quality of the books and the story as a whole.Boukreev's account was interesting and thankfully it wasn't the point by point rebuttal of Krakauer that I dreaded. Bourkreev provided many interesting contrasts to Krakauer's account. These included:
1. The perspective from Scott Fischer's expedition instead of Rob Hall's where Krakauer was.
2. The point of view of a world-class climber instead of an average one who describes himself as being woefully out of shape.
3. The day to day thoughts of a as rather than a client or observer.
Perhaps the strongest impression provided by Boukreev's account is of frequent misunderstandings and communication problems between the Fischer and himself as well as Fischer and his clients. Whether he intended to or not, Krakauer portrayed Boukreev as something of a villain who was out for himself. After reading climb, I don't think that Boukreev was selfish and negligent but that he did not receive consistent and adequate instructions from his leader.
Another interesting difference between each book is the different perspective of Sandy Hill Pitman. Krakauer takes a rather disparaging view of her and describes her as the spoiled brat of the expedition. But Boukreev describes her purely in terms of her role as a mountaineer. He access her strengths and weaknesses objectively and whether he intends to or not, he accords her much more respect than Krakauer.
I would give "Climb" three, possibly four stars if it weren't for the quality of the writing. Unfortunately DeWalt, tries to be too writerly and too gimmicky with his story. He ends chapter after chapter with glib remarks resembling such phrases as "little did they know what disaster was in store for them", or "but it was not to be." His tone is artificial and his narrative is more of an imposition than anything else. Fortunately, DeWalt is merciful enough to isolate Boukreev's personal narrative by rendering it in italics.
If you are interested in Mountain Climbing or in the 1996 disaster, then by all means read this book. But be ready for some disappointment.