The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston DeWalt Summary and Reviews
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Book Reviews of The Climb
Book Review: Read Into Thin Air unless you are a conspiracy junky
Summary: 3 Stars
As many other reviewers has pointed out, there is a good story here probably damaged by De Walt's rather obvious wish to stab Krauker in the back. Read this to discover what an amazing man Boukreev was, not for any lierary style - Boukreevs poor English and the rather disjointed manner of the switching between De Walt and Boukreev makes it a frustrating read especially as it becomes rather complicated figuring out whether it is Boukreev's story or De Walt's rather tainted speculation that is being peddled. My advice - for a consistent and interesting read, read Into Thin Air. As and when a biography of Boukreev (hopefully not written by De Walt) comes out, it should be fascinating.
My take on the '96 tragedy - I think that Krauker's story is undoubtedly incorrect in parts - but as he points out, above 27000 feet his, and everyone else's brain who was up there, was fried... I don't think any one of them, including the dead ever knew what happened or why...
Book Review: AIN'T NO MOUNTAIN HIGH ENOUGH...
Summary: 3 Stars
This is the story of the 1996 Everest disaster which saw so many climbers perish on that mountain. It is told from the perspective of Anatoli Boukreev, who was one of the guides on the ill-fated Mountain Madness expedition to Everest. It is written almost as a rebuttal to the perceived criticism of Boukreev's actions on that ill fated climb, criticism that was voiced by author Jon Karakauer in "Into Thin Air", his definitive book about the 1996 Everest expeditions debacle.This is a poorly written account which is oftentimes confusing. It has none of the clarity of prose found in Krakauer's "Into Thin Air". It is, however, an important chronicle from someone who was on Everest in 1996 and had a pivotal role in the tragic events that unfolded on the mountain. Boukreev provides an insider's view of the Mountain Madness expedition itself and of the preparations that go into such a journey. It is packed with many interesting details, which will delight Everest junkies.
Whether Boukreev's actions on the mountain were irresponsible in that he did not use supplementary oxygen to summit and immediately returned to camp after his successful summit bid, rather than remain with the expedition's clients, or whether he was just following the orders of the expedition leader, Scott Fischer, who himself was one of those who died on Everest in 1996, is an issue that will long be debated in mountaineering circles. There is no doubt, however, that Boukreev did, in fact, singlehandedly rescue three climbers during a raging blizzard; climbers who without his intervention would have died. Given the extreme weather conditions, his solo foray up the mountain to rescue climbers in nothing less than heroic.
Boukreev's is an important voice in the Everest annals, more so now that his voice has been silenced. On Christmas day, 1997, he died in an avalanche on Annapurna. RIP.
Book Review: In Memory of Anatoli Boukreev (1958?1997), by J. Rigby
Summary: 4 Stars
This is a book to be read in conjunction with Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air". "The Climb" is not the slickly written tale woven by Krakauer and, at times reading like a raw chronological documentary, tends to catalogue detail at the expense of a clear overview of the situation. Told alternately, and often tautologically, by both DeWalt and Boukreev, the rival expedition's account emerges viscously from a disjointed amalgam of primary quotes. At times DeWalt's interaction with the mountaineering material sorely lacks the credibility and authority of one who was actually there. Though ostensibly clinging to Boukreev's own philosophy that no one factor can be blamed for the tragedy, DeWalt comes dangerously close to inappropriately vilifying Rob Hall's team, whose slower and older members did indeed cause delays. Krakauer left readers an impression of Boukreev as the guide who "cut and ran" at the critical time - acting as an irresponsible awkward individualist, inattentive of his clients. "The Climb" includes crucial correspondence between Boukreev and "Outside" magazine (for whom Krakauer was working) that fields Krakauer's criticisms, exposing his invalid arguments and lack of communication with Anatoli himself. The transcript of an interview with Boukreev about the rescue at the South Col, left in Anatoli's imperfect English, provides a gritty, authentic insight into the chaotic situation at Camp IV during the storm and leaves me in awe of Boukreev's phenomenal strength, perseverance and selfless rescue efforts which are here, finally, paid their due.
Boukreev's self-reproach and deeply felt regret at being unable to save the lives also of Yasuko Namba and Scott Fischer find an outlet in the final chapters. In the "Epilogue: Return To Everest" - which unfortunately reads somewhat transparently as a promotional chapter for Anatoli's formidable skills as a "mountain consultant" to the 1997 Indonesian Expedition - he wrenchingly pays tribute to the storm victims.
Essential reading for anyone with a personal interest in Boukreev's reputation, "The Climb" restores his actions to the heroic status which they undoubtedly merited. What the tale lacks in literary skill it makes up for by industriously creating a three-dimensional and believable image of Boukreev that astounds. "I am not a superman", writes Anatoli (p. 244). After reading this book, I would have to disagree.
Book Review: A Must-Read!
Summary: 5 Stars
If you read 'Into Thin Air', you HAVE to read this! It's by the guide criticised by Jon Krakauer and tells something of a different story. I was blown away by 'Into Thin Air' but this book has convinced me that it wasn't 100% accurate. I am far more inclined to agree with this version of events and the decisions made by Anatoli Boukreev in an experienced, professional capacity than than agree with what Jon Krakauer thought Boukreev should have done- comments made with the benefit of hindsight. Boukreev was finally recognised for his heroic actions. He certainly didn't deserve the criticism he came in for, much of it from people who weren't even on Everest at the time! The story is a real page-turner and very well written. You only know half the story of the 1996 Everset disaster unless you've read this book!Book Review: Getting back at Jon Krakauer
Summary: 4 Stars
In 1996 several expeditions on Mount Everest where surprised but bad weather, resulting in one of the most media exposed disasters in mountaneering. Several book has been published describing these events, most notably Jon Krakauers "Into Thin Air", in which the role of guides on commercial expeditions comes in focus as a major reason for the events in 1996. Anatoli Boukreev is one of these guides, and "The Climb" is his version of the story.When I read Jon Krakauers bestselling "Into Thin Air" I was appalled at the way guided expeditions on Mount Everest were conducted. Especially Anatoli Boukreevs behavior as guide seemed inexplicable and confusing. Even though Krakauer is no hardcore mountaineer, and he participated in 1996 as a client on the late Rob Halls commercial expedition, he appeared to make some rather convincing points.
So reading Boukreevs own version of the 1996 disaster on Everest was an interesting experience. He doesn't write well. It's slowpaced, filled with facts, and with out any clear structure to the story - all these thing Krakauer does much better. But "The Climb" is much more thorough, and thoughtful. Without self-indulgence and focus on accomplishments, Boukreev leads us through the events, making it clear why he and other guides acted the way they did. He doesn't attempt to place blame, and his story thus succeed much more in conveying the horror and sadness of what occurred.
He also deals with the accusations Krakauer made, and in doing so provides many details and reflections, and new perspectives on Krakauers stories. In the end, no one can, nor should, place the blame for the deaths on Mount Everest on the shoulders of neither guides, expedition leaders, or the idea of guided expedition. And the complexity and risky nature of these undertakings becomes much clearer after reading Boukreevs book.
On occasion his detailed descriptions become somewhat tedious, and even after several rereadings I still couldn't keep track of how many bottles of oxygen went up and down the camps. But other than this, this is a book everybody who read "Into thin Air" HAS to read... and if you like mountanering, you'll enjoy it too.