The Taste of Bread Summary and Reviews

The Taste of Bread
by Raymond Calvel, Ronald L. Wirtz

The Taste of Bread
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Book Summary Information

Author: Raymond Calvel, Ronald L. Wirtz
Adapter: James J. MacGuire
Edition: Hardcover
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2001-03-01
ISBN: 0834216469
Number of pages: 205
Publisher: Springer
Accessories:

Book Reviews of The Taste of Bread

Book Review: An imperfect, invaluable book
Summary: 4 Stars

I am NOT the ideal reader for this book, since my interest is far more in bread history than in actually making it (something I do very badly). And so there are huge swathes of this book which impress me by their apparent precision and their description of the workings of various ingredients without my being able to judge their accuracy or even, entirely, their usefulness. There are, however, very few serious books on bread history (though lots filled with colorful myths) and Calvel's book is also important, if imperfect, on that score. For one thing, he lived through a period when the baguette was still a new bread and the now exotic "wine merchant's bread" (pain marchand de vin) was a standard item, as well as various wartime changes and restrictions and the ups and downs of bread quality at different periods. As a result his history on such things tends to be dependable (I have quibbles even here, but data is so rare on some of this, it is hard to say definitively that he is wrong). He is less dependable for developments that occurred before his period of activity and on a few points is shockingly wrong. The 19th century "pain viennois" for instance was made, like the modern one, with some milk added; Calvel claims it was not. The term "pain de fantaisie" (fancy bread; literally, "fantasy bread") has existed since the 18th century; he gives a rather confused explanation of its origin in relation to the baguette (which was indeed a pain de fantaisie at its start but only one, and a rather late, example of the genre). His expertise is at the same time illustrated and undermined by his mention of August Zang, the Austrian officer who brought the croissant (and some important techniques) to France. The fact that he mentions him at all is a sign of his erudition in the field; the fact that he (like previous but equally erroneous sources) calls him "Baron Zang" shows that he has accepted second hand information without doing any primary research (contemporary records make it clear that Zang was a commoner). This goes to the heart of the weakness in his history before about 1930 - he seems to have accepted legends of the trade (like the baker he was) and never bothered to do hard historical research (like the professor he became). Along the same lines, he credits Zang with introducing the poolish method, when in fact it is first mentioned in France decades after Zang's activity there. Etc. For those trying to research such subjects in any serious way, Calvel's book is invaluable; unfortunately, it is also undependable. Among the many positives which make the book a treasure despite such lapses is the fact that he includes photographs of most of the modern French breads. One would think such an image would be easy to find, but in fact even France's National Bakers' Union offers nothing of the sort. And so if bread as a subject interests you in any serious way, either technically or historically, you should at least find a chance to browse this book. The American version (I read French but have not seen the original) is pricey, but may well be worth owning. Certainly, it is a modern classic in the field.

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